Raising Chickens 101: How to Get Started with Backyard Chickens

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When I decided to start raising chickens, I spent an entire year learning about chicken farming, including how to build a coop ourselves. I’m so glad I did!

I almost decided to spontaneously go and get the chicks and figure it out as we went. That would have been a disaster! I had no idea how fast they grow and how much you really do need to know, especially with baby chicks. Even with a year to plan we were running out of time to finish our coop before the chickens were too big for the brooder.

If you’re hoping to add chickens to your homestead (whatever that looks like) there are some important things to consider before running to the feed store to grab baby chicks (or even older hens). 

Raising Chickens: Before getting your chickens 

If you’re going to start with baby chicks, you have to be prepared. Those little buggers grow FAST! If you’re getting older hens (more on making this choice below) then you’ll still need to be prepared.

A coop

Before you can begin raising chickens, they need somewhere to live out of the rain, wind, snow, etc. They grow fast, so you need to have this worked out from the beginning. If you have a barn or a shed you can easily convert, you’re good. Keep in mind that your chickens need 4 sq ft of space each inside the coop AND 10 sq ft of run space (an enclosed outdoor area) minimum. If you don’t already have a barn, you’ll need to build or buy a coop. You have a few options.

Chicken coop kits and pre-builts

If you aren’t a handy person or just simply have more money than time to invest,  you may want to buy your coop. Chicken coop kits are convenient, and you can pick whatever style works for you. You may even save some money by buying a kit over buying materials to build your own coop. You can also find coops on Craigslist from local crafters, which are beautiful but a little more expensive.

DIY chicken coops

We built our own chicken coop based on plans I created. We wanted 4 chickens, but made a coop big enough for 6 (and that was a good thing because our first order of chicks required a 6-bird minimum). If you’re looking for inspiration or plans for your own coop check out this list of 55 DIY coops. 

Chicken tractors

This is another possibility for those of you wanting just a few birds or who live in a more temperate climate. Basically, a chicken tractor is a chicken coop on wheels that you can move around. This is a really great choice for urban or suburban farmers because you can continually give your chickens access to new space without actually letting them out. You can also build them yourself. 

Nesting boxes

Nesting boxes are a safe place for your chickens to lay their eggs. You need nesting boxes as soon as your chickens begin to lay eggs. The general rule of thumb is that you need 1 nesting box for every 3-5 chickens. However, I’ve had 6 chickens all lay in the same box with just a random egg here and there in the other box. They will practically stand in line to use the box that other eggs are in!

Our nesting boxes are made out of scrap wood. You can use just about anything, from plastic totes to old milk crates. Don’t forget to line them with soft bedding.

Bedding

In order to keep your chickens healthy and happy in their coop you must have a way of dealing with their droppings. Bedding is material that you spread out on the floor to absorb moisture. Straw, sand, or wood shavings are the most popular choices.

Straw

Straw has been used traditionally as bedding because it’s easy to find and transport. I prefer not to use straw because It may have caused one of my chickens to get an impacted crop, but many people use it without issues.

Sand

Sand is becoming more and more attractive as a bedding choice for many people. Sand has been proven to be better than pine shavings at reducing moisture in the coop, as well as reducing bacterial and fungal counts.

I’ve also heard that it can keep the chickens’ feet cleaner, and cleaner feet mean cleaner eggs. However, I have also heard that chickens will eat their own poop since it becomes covered in sand.

Wood shavings

I currently use pine shavings, and they work great. I sprinkle some on top of the old bedding, and it absorbs moisture and smells.

I also use the deep litter method, which means that I leave the old litter to decompose in the coop (with fresh litter on top to absorb moisture and smells). Deep litter helps keep the coop warm in the winter too!

Brooder

If you want to start raising chickens with baby chicks, once you have a coop available (or a plan to build one quickly) you can work on getting the brooder set up.

A brooder is a place where baby chicks stay warm and grow. You can go as simple as a cardboard box or as complicated as you want. We’ve always used large cardboard boxes and cut and taped them together to make them bigger as needed. We also place some plastic mesh over the top so they don’t fly out. I’ve heard of watermelon crates from the grocery store working well.

You’ll also need a brooder light or heater. I like the Ecoglow because there’s no risk of fire, unlike heat lamps and bulbs. I also like that the chicks can self regulate their heat (by going under when cold and coming out when warm). With heat lamps the brooder box may get too cold or too warm. I prefer a low stress setup so the Ecoglow is what I use and recommend.

When planning your brooder, find a place that is not going to be too cold. Even with the heater your chicks might get too cold if they are in a place that drops below 50-60 degrees.

Supplies:

• Box of some sort (cardboard, wood, plastic tote)
• Plastic mesh for the top
• Bedding 
• Food and water
• Heat lamp or Ecoglow (may be cheaper on their site)

For a more detailed instruction on setting up a brooder check out this post.

Raising chickens: Food and water

Chicks need different food from laying hens. Chick crumbles, also called starter or starter and grower is a nutritionally whole feed without added calcium. Stick with organic to avoid GMO corn and soy.

Some chick food is medicated and some is not. The point of medicated feed is to ward off coccidiosis.

Many backyard and small-scale chicken farmers skip the medicated feed with the understanding that coccidiosis is more of a problem in crowded and large operations.

If you choose to skip the medicated feed, be sure to keep the brooder very clean and dry. 

When your Chickens are 16-18 weeks old (or if you opted for pullets instead of chicks) you should begin giving them layer feed, which has added calcium they need to build eggshells.

You could also give them crushed eggshells for added calcium.

Chicks (and hens) need lots of fresh water. They also like to poop in the water a lot! You might wonder why you need a fancy feeder or waterer when you have a cat dish that would work just as well.

When your chicks dump the food half the time and poop in the water the other half, you’ll know! There are some DIY choices, though, if you don’t want to buy feeders and waterers:

• DIY chicken feeder
• DIY chicken waterer

Also, take a look at the feeder and waterers we made in our coop building post.

Supplies:

• Chick feeder
• Chick waterer
• Hen feeder (or toss food on the ground for them to scratch)
• Hen waterer
• Organic starter/grower feed (start with a 40 or 50-pound bag for 4 or more chicks)
• Organic Layer pellets

Get your Chicks or Pullets

You’ve decided on raising chickens and have everything else picked out, now it’s time to get your chickens! You have many choices to make when deciding to start your backyard flock.

I know this can feel overwhelming but you don’t have to know exactly what you want. It’s just good to know there are choices and if presented with one, which choice is best for you. 

One choice you have to make is baby chicks or pullets (egg-laying age).

Benefits of baby chicks

• They are so cute!
• You get to watch them grow.
• You can pick from a variety of breeds.
• You can socialize them early. If you handle them early you are more likely to be able to handle them later.
• Did I mention they are so cute! (and great for a homeschooling lesson)

Benefits of Pullets (older chickens)

• You get eggs right away
• You know they are indeed hens and not roosters
• Less startup cost (brooder setup, feed while they are growing, etc.)
• They are less needy and delicate

I have always gotten chicks, partly because I have small kids that love them, but also because they are so easy to find.

Raising Chickens: Hatchery vs. local breeder vs. local homesteader

You also have to decide whether to get your chickens from a hatchery (at the feed store or in the mail) or if you want to find someone local who hatched their own chicks.

Benefits of hatchery chicks

• Easy to find, easy to order
• Heritage breeds available
• You can be about 90% sure you are getting hens (other places sell a mix of both)

Benefits of local breeder

• You support the local economy (though they are hard to find)
• highest quality heritage breeds

Benefits of local homesteader

• Support a fellow homesteader
• May be organic, unmedicated, etc.
• May be a more sustainable and ethical business practice (less likely to kill oversupply)

I have always gotten my chickens from a hatchery at my local feed store. I can’t say this is the best way to do it and I often feel bad about the poor animal treatment I’m supporting.

The thing is, finding local chicks or pullets is actually very difficult! Ideally, I would find someone locally who has healthy chickens to get chicks from in the future.

I also would love to have a self-sustaining flock, where I can let a broody hen do her thing and hatch some youngins!

Backyard Chicken Breeds

When choosing chicken breeds you have to take into account the climate you live in as well as what you want (eggs, meat, both?). Up here in NH the winters are cold so I stick with cold hardy chickens.

I’ve had Ameraucanas, Buff Orpingtons, Black Austrolorps, Rhode Island Reds, and Rainbows (though I don’t recommend the rainbow because it’s a hybrid). Other cold-hardy breeds include: 

• Buckeye
• Cochin
• Delaware
• Easter Egger
• Jersey Giant
• New Hampshire Red
• Plymouth Rock
• Sussex
• Wyandotte

Generally speaking, you’ll notice it’s difficult to find chickens that aren’t suited to your climate unless you order online and have them shipped. Your local feed store and your local homesteader are likely to have chickens that are going to survive and thrive in your climate.

I’ve also found that choosing a breed is a matter of getting them and seeing if you like their temperament (or how often they lay, etc.)

Common Questions About Backyard Chickens

If you’re new to keeping chickens, you probably have a million questions. Here are some of the most common ones:

1. How often do chickens lay eggs?

Most hens start laying around 5-6 months old, and they’ll usually lay about one egg a day, though not every hen lays daily. Factors like breed, age, weather, and daylight hours can affect their laying schedule. In the winter, egg production might slow down or even pause because hens need sunlight to lay.

2. How do chickens mate?

It’s pretty simple: the rooster mounts the hen and transfers sperm to fertilize her eggs. There’s no penetration, though. It’s more like a squirt gun situation (you asked!) Fun fact—hens can store sperm for weeks and lay fertilized eggs without needing to mate again right away.

3. Do chickens need a rooster to lay eggs?

Nope! Hens lay eggs without a rooster. Roosters are only needed if you want fertilized eggs for hatching chicks. That’s great news for people who want a quiet flock or live in areas where roosters aren’t allowed.

4. How long do fresh eggs last?

Unwashed eggs can last about two to three weeks on the counter or three to 6 months in the fridge. The key is not washing them until you’re ready to use them, as the natural bloom (a protective coating) keeps them fresh. If you’re unsure, do the float test: put an egg in a bowl of water. If it sinks, it’s good; if it floats, toss it! And of course, if an egg smells bad when cracked, toss it!

5. When do chickens molt?

Chickens molt—meaning they lose old feathers and grow new ones—once a year, usually in the fall. It can last a few weeks to a couple of months, and during this time, they’ll take a break from laying eggs to focus their energy on feather regrowth.

6. How long does a chicken live?

The average backyard chicken lives about 5-10 years. Some breeds live longer, while others bred for high egg production might have shorter lifespans. Either way, providing good care and a safe environment can help your flock live its best life.

7. How do I keep predators away?

Predators like raccoons, hawks, and foxes are a real threat to backyard chickens. To keep them safe, make sure your coop and run are secure. Use hardware cloth (not chicken wire), bury fencing a few inches into the ground to deter digging, and lock the coop at night. Motion-activated lights and keeping food scraps cleaned up can also help.

8. How do I handle a broody hen?

A broody hen insists on sitting on eggs to hatch them, even if they’re not fertilized. While it’s natural, it can be annoying if you don’t want chicks or if she stops laying. To break her broodiness, try removing her from the nest regularly or placing her in “broody jail” (a wire-bottomed cage with good airflow) for a few days.

9. What do I do if my chicken gets sick?

Chickens can sometimes get sick, and it’s important to know what to look for. Signs of illness include lethargy, changes in appetite, unusual droppings, or abnormal behavior. If you notice anything off, isolate the chicken from the flock while you investigate. Keeping your coop clean and providing a balanced diet can go a long way in preventing illness.

Got more questions about raising chickens? Drop them in the comments—I’d love to help!

And if you want to know more, check out my new ebook Raising Chickens Naturally.

In this book, you’ll learn all the information you need to begin raising chickens for eggs, right in your backyard (from fluffy chick to first egg and beyond!).

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